If you only dive in tropical waters or only in midsummer, a wetsuit will do. But if diving has got you hooked and you want to enjoy everything it offers, diving deeper and for longer, you can't do without a dry suit.
First, the course
Diving in a dry suit takes special skills, so before you dive in one you need to complete a Dry Suit Diver course. It gives you the knowledge you need and teaches you to use the suit correctly and safely.
The zip
The dry suit as we know it today appeared around the mid-1960s, when it was fitted with a watertight zip borrowed from space suits. The zip is the most expensive part of the suit and needs regular, correct care.
Suits differ in where the zip is and how you get into them:
- Back zip. You will need someone's help to close and open it.
- Front zip, running diagonally, in an arc or straight across. You will most likely be able to put the suit on and take it off without help.
Whichever design you choose, what matters most is that neither the zip nor the suit restricts your movement.
Materials
Dry suits are made of:
- Neoprene
- Specially treated and coated textile, known as Cordura
- Crushed (high-pressure compressed) neoprene
- Vulcanised rubber
- Trilaminate
- A combination of different materials
Trilaminate and neoprene suits are bought most often:
- Trilaminate suits keep the same buoyancy. A damaged trilaminate or Cordura suit can be repaired practically at the dive site.
- Neoprene suits change their buoyancy and thermal properties with depth. A damaged neoprene suit must, of course, be dried before it is repaired.
Seals
The seals are a very important part of the suit. They are made of:
- Neoprene, which gives extra thermal insulation.
- Latex, which does not deform permanently. Latex seals are cone-shaped with marked rings, along which you can trim the seal to fit you.
Most important is to choose seals that don't restrict your blood circulation, and above all don't press too hard on the blood vessels in your neck. Used correctly, both kinds last a long time, and torn seals can be replaced. Dive centre staff who service diving equipment can do this for you.
Boots
A dry suit ends either in attached boots or in neoprene socks, over which the diver wears sturdy dry suit boots. Both have their advantages: separate boots take longer to put on, but they support the foot better and your legs feel firmer in fins.
Undersuit
A dry suit is worn over a thermal undersuit. With undersuits of different thickness you can use the same suit at different temperatures.
Extras
Some manufacturers offer many extras:
- A zip in the crotch area
- A urine relief system
- Extra air exhaust valves
- Various pockets
The ultimate dry suit is one made to your measurements and sewn just for you.
What to check when you buy
- Inspect the valves and make sure you can reach the exhaust valve.
- Make sure the zip and the suit don't restrict your movement.
- Check that the seals don't press on your neck or restrict your circulation.
- Look at the pockets: it is handy when they are easy to reach.
A well-chosen dry suit will last a long time and let you enjoy diving all 12 months of the year.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a course to dive in a dry suit?
Yes. Diving in a dry suit takes special skills, so first complete a Dry Suit Diver course, where you learn to use the suit correctly and safely.
How do trilaminate and neoprene dry suits differ?
A trilaminate suit keeps the same buoyancy and can be repaired practically at the dive site. A neoprene suit changes its buoyancy and thermal properties with depth and must be dried before it is repaired.
Should I choose latex or neoprene seals?
Neoprene seals give extra thermal insulation; latex does not deform permanently, and latex seals can be trimmed to fit. Above all, the seals must not restrict your circulation or press too hard on your neck.